Cultural Impressions

Have you ever been to South Africa? Talked to a South African? White or Black?

In all my traveling about, I have met several South Africans – none of which have been black. Yet, we are talking about an African nation here where 90% of the population is native to the reign.

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In traveling to this particular country, I have never felt so uneasy to be white in my life. If not for the knowledge of the history of oppression the white population had imposed on the native population, than for the extremely high crime rate of the nation. According to a UN study conducted in 2005, South Africa ranked as one of the top countries in the world for rape and murder. This fact is compounded by the widespread epidemic of AIDS and extreme inequality of wealth between the top 10% (who are mostly white) and the impoverished 90% (who are mostly black) – which many would argue is the reason for the extreme culture of violence.

Upon landing in Johannesburg, one of the first things I noticed was the bared windows and walled up homes with shards of glass surrounding the living compounds. To say this is unnerving is an understatement. Lucy, a friend I met on my travels, explained that growing up they could not play outside or walk to school because it was too dangerous. Instead, families spend their times on buses or within the walled up compounds of their homes – that is if they are well off enough to have a home.

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Picture: Soweto, a shanty town in Johannesburg of roughly .5 million

Regardless of its notorious reputation, I did not experience anything more than uneasiness while walking about Johannesburg or surrounding areas (solo I might add), but I did experience something else that I did not quite expect while making the obligatory trip to the apartheid museum.

Lost and attempting to find my way, I pulled up to a gate guard and naturally asked for directions (locked doors and cracked windows of course). Instead of answering my question he tilted his head and asked where I was from. ‘America’, my response.

He gave me a look  I will never forget.

It was a look of inherent respect, one I had never before received for just stating my nationality. He then promptly put his hand my car, keeping his steady gaze and shook my hand. ‘That way,’ he pointed. And away I drove.

This moment is forever branded in my mind and has yet to be replicated. I don’t know if it was the recent election of President Obama (which I think was a large player), or the large respect for the values of the country. Regardless, that one moment will stand out among the others as one I will never forget.

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Upon being told in late April that I would need to cancel all my vacation for the summer and spend two months in the sweltering heat of Montgomery, Alabama – I blankly stared. After recovering from the fact that I would need to cancel my Running with Bulls trip and tell my poor sister that she would need to navigate Harrogate, England without me…I started to think of the two month training as less of an order and more of a paid vacation back to America.

It had been two years since I had spent longer than a week back in the states. A fact that I honestly did not think much of until I stepped off the plane in Atlanta (aka Hot-lanta). I do not know what it was, possibly the upfront, slightly pushy nature of the TSA staff directing us to immigration or the fact that one lady boldly complimented my shoe choice (Brit’s don’t really do that) or possibly it was the diversity of the airport that made me really feel at home. England is lovely, but they don’t have the raw, boisterous, straight forward nature of an American that you just can’t help but love. I was so excited I nearly hugged everyone that greeted me with a “hello” and “this way”.

But lets get more to the interesting part of the story – why, may you ask, did I get sent to Alabama?

In the Air Force they have something called Squadron Officer School or SOS. This two month training (sometimes 5 weeks, other times 8…the Air Force can’t decide how long to make it) is meant to instill every Captain (officer in for about 6/7 years) with leadership principles as well as test them through a series of obstacles and “team leadership problems”/ TLP’s.

Sound like fun? Actually, it is a Hell of a lot of fun. I basically get paid to run around in the morning jumping through hoops, climbing walls or playing some sort of dodge ball game called FLEX (field leadership exercise…we love our made up acronyms)

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FLEX demo (also known as Icarus): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGkk3M66yHg

I consistently look around at what I get to do through the military and the Air Force and wonder how I get paid to do these things. Yes, SOS does take you away from home for 2 months and forces you to learn about communication and leadership principles (FRLM)..as well as forces you to play fake games that are supposed to test your leadership ability..but it is basically two months where your schedule is 9-3pm with half of that time spent outside solving puzzles.

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Picture: Project X – A series of obstacles involving limited resources, a lot of water and high walls.

Dos Gringos, SOS: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MF0Nki4_azk

Of course there are always those people that find it a waste of time (which they have a point with our hard working 6 hour days and 2 hour lunches), but I ask you, if the Air Force is spending thousands of dollars to invest in training you to be a better leader and giving you two months to reflect on this ability – why not take it?

‘Merica

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On this 4th of July I find myself back in the United States for the first time in 2 years.

While it has been amazing living overseas for those 2 years, there is just something about coming home to celebrate my countries birth that gives an extra special sentiment only understood by those who have lived away from home for so long.

While explaining this to my Scottish boyfriend, he made an interesting point: Have you ever wondered what other countries celebrate their independence? England does not celebrate nor understand the concept of an Independence Day – because everyone is celebrating their independence from them!

True for nearly every European country, we have a unique perspective as a former colony, and current world power. While we are by no means perfect, it is amazing to see the patriotism seen on our birthday, celebrated through BBQs with neighbors, friends and relatives. Never before had I stopped to think how unique this celebration is to the modern world where ancient powers take for granted their years of history and dominance.

Today, while at sitting on the beach, drinking a beer with those whom I love, I appreciate for the first time the 4th of July.

‘Merica!

The W experience

Would you:
– Drop 500euro on a room
– Buy a flight on a whim
– Where those $300 pumps that you knew would be worth it, one day
– Live like you own a yate/make 3 figures/just are fabulous — for the weekend

If you answer yes to all these questions — then you just might be the right girl for me.

We have this tradition among my girlfriends that I highly recommend you copy (and for dudes just swap out the heels for scotch and cigars) — reunite at a fabulous location and live like you are a rock star. The only requirement – it must be a W hotel.

This tradition started a few years back upon the discovery of the W Dallas. With a posh club that overlooks the city skyline and a rooftop pool, I thought I had made it to heaven. That was until we encountered the W Scotsdale, the W Seoul and more recently, the W Paris.

Can I afford these trips? Not really. But its fun to pretend that you can (even if your jeans are from target) with your best girlfriends for a weekend. Plus if you swing a room with 2 beds, a federal rate (if you are a government employee) and add 4 of your favorite people — the entire weekend is less than $300.
So the next time you better not – dont. Just go for it; go for the W.

From Johannesburg to Kigali

I could probably write a book on my two week experience in Rwanda. Not because I changed the world in 2 weeks, but because of the culminating meaning of the trip.

Many people dream about what they want to do when they grow up. For me – I had no freaking clue. I started off in fashion/modeling (dream, not reality) when I was 16, moved to business when I was 17 and signed my life away to the military at 18. Needless to say – I still have no idea what I want to be when I grow up.

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The one thing I have decided, however, is that I want to live a life of service; service to others, in whatever capacity. Make whatever argument you want, to me you have not known true fulfillment until you have the ability to life for others before yourself.

While meandering down this path, I decided to look into life as an aid worker. What better way to see if this was for me than to volunteer in a developing country? Which one to choose? Well, I was going to be in South Africa for the World Cup, so why not tack on a trip to Rwanda!

With its tumultuous past, seemingly quick recovery and uncertain future, to say Rwanda was interesting is an understatement. While I was placed in Kigali, the capital city, my initial impression was pretty much what one would think of an African country.

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First, I started off on kind of a bad foot – I missed my initial flight to Kigali from Johannesburg. My fault? Mmmm… note to self – leave at least 2 hours to check in at any African airport. I arrived an hour prior to my flight (having forgotten most of my money, credit cards and dignity in the rental car my friends dropped me off in) and was told by the Airline manager that they could not possibly let me one the flight. Apparently, an hour is cutting it too close. Their loss really since he ended up expensing a 2 night stay in Johannesburg as well as free transport to and from the airport…

So 3 days later, I finally was met by one of the local volunteers, Muvunyi. After pushing the car down a hill to get it started, we made our way down the dirt roads to the compound where volunteers lived in a family style housing.

Crawling into my mosquito-netted bed, I wondered what the next few weeks had in store for me.

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Adventure Found in a New Place

Have you ever dreamed of traveling the world? Living in different countries? Speaking new languages, seeing new people — challenging yourself in a way that you never thought possible? I did. It was all I ever thought about.

Sitting here in snowy England, I find myself in a quandary — what do you do when you have achieved your dream?

And then it came to me — you think of a new one.

“Be the change you wish to see in the world” – something always quoted but rarely actioned. What do you often talk/complain about? Have you done it?

Berlin in the Rough

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If I am completely honest, Berlin has never fascinated me all that much. Yes, I know my WWI/II history buffs are screaming at me – but it is the simple truth. The anticipation up to the trip there didn’t help much either – as the city break was meant to be a surprise Birthday present for my Ex. As luck would have it, we broke up months before the trip and I was left with 2 round trip tickets and a paid-in-full hotel.

Well Hell if I was going to waste that ticket! I made the trip solo and was left with lots of reflective time in the process.

West Berlin, while pretty, is fairly standard. Now East Berlin – that is something to observe, take in and explore. Whether you took a piece of the wall at that infamous moment in time in 1989 or are new to the city, the East Berlin that was once known for its stark depressive state, is a booming metropolis of history and progress.

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East Side Gallery

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Holocaust Memorial — controversial, but effective. Why the different heights and spaces? To get lost among the stone that represents the millions suffered under Nazi rule. Take a walk through the interactive memorial and understand history.

Gypsies?! aka “Traveler Community”

Today I learned something new — Gypsies exist. And we shouldn’t call them ‘Gypsies’ they are members from the ‘Traveler Community’ (kind of like Indians are ‘Native Americans’).
To be honest, they kind of have a bad reputation. In the UK, they are known for getting drunk and getting into fights. In mainland Europe, they have a bad rep for being beggers who steal all your money and attempt to scam you with sob stories. While these may all be true, the community has one constant in their culture — they are always on the move.
Have you heard of “My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding?” Apperantly I am the only person in this modern world who has actually never watched the program – but it is your best bet for trying to understand this subculture of Europe. Weary of strangers, and an extremely closed community, the people are far from the Esmerelda cartoon character I imagined.

Hogmanay, Scottish Style

I don’t know if it was the accent, bag pipes playing in the street or the whisky (not whiskey) shops on every corner – but Scotland is just different from England. Proud of their heritage and fiercely independent minded, the Scots of Edinburgh surely have a rich heritage to be proud of.

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‘Hogmanay’ is Scottish for the last day of the year. Historically believed to have coincided with the Winter Solstice, it has grown to one of the largest New Years celebrations in the world.

Kicking off this three day event, is the torchlight procession (on Dec 29th). Largely done in part for charity, each member lights each others candle until the crowd of 20,000 people can proceed down Chambers street fully lite. The sight of walking fire culminates at Edinburgh castle where viking processions set afire wooden structures in the streets.

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New Years Eve is an entirely separate event. With a concert in the gardens, the Keilidh (traditional Scottish music) and the infamous street party, there is plenty to entertain. The street party is the most popular; the city shuts down the main thoroughfare of Princes St to allow the nearly 400,000 visitors fill its streets. With 5 live bands, screens and a 2 minute long firework finale – it is easy to see how this event is one of the worlds most popular.

Probably the best part of the night is the singing of “Auld Lang Syne” – that song we all sing during New Years, written and popularized by the famous Scottish poet, Robert “Rabbie” Burns. Does the below sound familiar?

Should auld acquaintance be forgot and never brought to mind?
Should auld acquaintance be forgot and auld lang syne
For auld lang syne, my dear, for auld lang syne,
We’ll take a cup o kindness yet, for auld lang syne.”

As a local told me– the air of Edinburgh gets into your blood. It fills your spirit with the celebration of New Years and, incredibly, cures your hangover the following day.

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Into the Jungle

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In Jan 2012 I had the opportunity to travel to one of the oldest tropical rainforests in the world, Taman Negara. Spanning across three states in Malaysia, it is one of the few areas in the world that still has areas untouched by modern civilization.

With few roadways leading to the jungle, we took a long motorized banana boat to reach the floating village of Kuala Tahan. I soon realized I was no longer in Kuala Lumpur – I had intelligently brought my huge rolly suitcase into the depths of the Malaysian jungle, which was probably the poorest traveling choice I had ever made. Struggling up the hillside in 85 degree (F) weather, I was lucky enough to have a wonderful manfriend that kindly sweated over the pounds of clothing I had decided to bring with me (did I mention this was a poor choice?).

The four day trip held many interesting critters and rare animals, but by far the most interesting part of the trip was the day spent with the indigenous populations of the jungle.

I have long been fascinated with the indigenous populations of the world that try to preserve their culture in the face of growing technology of the outside world. These people are no different from those I have experienced in Lao PDR, Rwanda and Argentina.

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The government of Malaysia is faced with an interesting question when it comes to these people, called ‘Batek Negritos’, as they try to bring them into the modern world. They send convoy’s monthly offering medical care, free education for children and other modern niceties such as rice and sugar. Yet the Batek people reject much of these modern attempts to bring ‘civilization’ to their hunter and gatherer lifestyle.

When I asked our tour guide, Agung,  why this was he said “they say modern world is boring. They do not know it or understand it. They grow up in the jungle from a young age being taught how to survive, what to eat and track.” The concrete jungle simply is boring when given the opportunity to climb, swing and hunt amongst tigers, rhinoceros’ and elephants.

This brings me to an interesting question – is modernization really the answer? Do we really have a superior lifestyle to these people with our cubicles, box lunches and treadmills? What is our obligation to these types of groups throughout the world? Is it to understand, watch and modernize? Turn them into tourist destinations?

Or maybe we have a thing or two to learn and/or remember how we were meant to live. Free and wild under the scorching sun, in the humid air protected only by the trees above you and the leaves beneath your feet.